The best solution is probably to purchase the external strobe offered by SeaLife, but it costs almost $200.

Forcing the flash on helped, but after the camera automatically powered down, the setting returned to the default Auto-even though we had switched off Return To Default. With the housing back on the camera, we needed a flash to obtain proper exposure and accurate color even at 12 feet underwater however, the Auto flash setting didn't agree. There's an optical viewfinder on the camera, but it's small and provides a slightly distorted view. We were also disappointed with the LCD's performance under dim and indoor lighting, where it displays a noisy image with a slow refresh rate that creates a dragging effect. However, its poorly constructed sliding lens cover feels loose, and the control buttons lie flush with the camera's surface, so they're difficult to push. The camera itself has a compact 7.3-ounce design and is easy to use. If you're wrong, you have to get out of the water, dry off the housing, and start over.

Since underwater conditions are a mystery until you splash down, you must guess at how to set up the camera in advance. While this arrangement makes for straightforward use, it also forces you to rely solely on the flash, white-balance, and exposure settings you chose before you put the camera in the housing. Unfortunately, the housing sports a mere three buttons: power, shutter release, and LCD power/Playback. You can view the camera's main 1.6-inch LCD and smaller status LCD easily through the housing windows, and SeaLife includes a sportsfinder (external viewfinder), although it's accurate at only a distance of at least four feet. Its black nonslip grip and included wrist strap help you keep hold of it, and since the housing is positively buoyant, it will float if you let go.

The rubberized housing, depth-rated to 200 feet, easily withstands the rigors of diving and boating.

Sealife reefmaster dc 1200